James Roddie shows you how to have the most adventurous weekend possible using Skye’s tourist hotspot as a base.
The Isle of Skye has become one of Scotland’s most popular outdoors destinations. There is a wealth of hillwalking, scrambling and climbing here, along with world-class coastal scenery and some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the country. Portree is the largest settlement on Skye, and is considered the capital of the island. It is a brilliant town to base yourself in for a weekend in the outdoors.
Main image: The beloved view from Sgurr na Stri | Credit: James Roddie
Portree is perfectly located between two spectacular upland areas – the Cuillin mountains to the South, and the Trotternish ridge to the North. With 12 Munros and 2 Corbetts, the Cuillin is the main attraction on Skye for hillwalkers and scramblers. The main ridge traverse is the best mountaineering route in the UK. Some of the summits here are the rockiest and most technically challenging in the country, and the views are amongst the best you will see anywhere.
The Trotternish ridge is very different to the Cuillin, but no less memorable. Prehistoric landslides have created a bizarre landscape of pinnacles, rocky mounds and flat-topped grassy ‘tables’. The centrepiece is the Old Man of Storr – a 50m high pinnacle which has become one of the most famous landforms in Scotland. A full traverse of the Trotternish ridge is around 37km in length, and it is a unique and memorable walk.
If the weather is too bad to head into the hills, then there are numerous excellent coastal walks to try or waterfalls to visit. Kilt Rock waterfall and Lealt falls are both breathtaking after heavy rain, and are located close to Portree. Dunvegan Castle and the Staffin Dinosaur Museum are both well worth a visit. You can even go and look for preserved dinosaur footprints on the rocky shore at Staffin at low tide.
Portree has a variety of restaurants, cafes and takeaways, along with a good number of shops and numerous options for accommodation. Wildlife watching boat trips run from the harbour. The Isle of Skye gets very busy during the summer, so booking accommodation early is strongly advised, even if camping.
The Trotternish Ridge. Credit: James Roddie
Your weekend in Portree, sorted
- The weekend itinerary
- Other walks near Portree
- Accommodation
- Food and drink
- Guides and activity providers
- Guidebooks
- Getting there
Your itinerary
Saturday
Take a boat trip to Loch Coruisk and climb Sgurr na Stri to find one of the best summit views in the UK. In the evening, take a quick walk to see the unique landscape of Trotternish.
Drive south to the harbour at Elgol, and take the Misty Isle or Bella Jane boat trip to Loch Coruisk. This is arguably the most impressive loch in Scotland, and is a worthy destination in its own right. From the stepping stones over the Scavaig River, follow a rough track Northeast towards Loch a’Choire Riabhach. A few hundred metres before the loch, turn Southest up a smaller, indistinct track heading uphill. Follow this up boggy ground, weaving between rocky areas, to reach the summit of Sgurr na Stri (494m). This small summit has one of the best views in the UK – looking straight into the heart of the Cuillin mountains, with the sea just below. Once you have finished taking in the view, retrace your steps and catch the boat back to Elgol.
If you still have energy, then a short walk on the Trotternish ridge is a perfect way to spend an evening. Head North from Portree to the Quiraing carpark, located high at 249m. From here, a walk of just over 1km either North or South will reward you will spectacular views of this unusual landscape.
Two distant scramblers on the Cuillin. Credit: James Roddie
Sunday
Scramble along a section of the Cuillin ridge to summit three of Scotland’s best Munros.
Whilst a full traverse of the Cuillin ridge is a challenging mountaineering trip requiring a rope and climbing skills, it is possible to tackle various sections of the ridge with less difficulty. One of the best sections includes the Munros of Sgurr a’Mhadaidh, Sgurr a’Ghreadaidh and Sgurr na Banachdich. This involves exposed Grade 2/3 scrambling, so walkers without considerable scrambling experience may wish to hire a mountain guide.
From the carpark near Glen Brittle hostel, follow a clear path into upper Coire a’Ghreadaidh. Eventually you reach a steep scree slope leading into An Dorus – a deep gap in the ridge. Climb steeply out of the gap and head North to reach the summit of Sgurr a’Mhadaidh (918m). Reverse your steps to An Dorus and climb up a steep, polished wall to gain the Northeast ridge of Sgurr a’Ghreadaidh. Pass over the top of an impressive gully (Eag Dubh) with some difficulty, and around the right edge of a large buttress (The Wart). Continue to the summit (973m). The next section towards the South top and beyond is one of the narrowest sections of ridge in the UK. The exposure is thrilling and care is required! Follow the knife-edge ridge as it starts to descend. Continue around The Three Teeth, over Sgurr Thormaid and eventually to Sgurr na Banachdich (965m). Descend West to reach a path leading down into Coir’ an Eich and to Coire a’Ghreadaidh.
Other walks nearby
The Storr
Distance: 8km/5 miles | Ascent: 650m/2133ft | Duration: 3 to 4 hours
Many people visiting the island will choose to walk up to the famous Old Man of Storr – a huge rock pinnacle not far away from Portree. By continuing the ascent you can reach the summit of The Storr (714m) itself. This gives a longer and much quieter walk, and a wider range of views of the Old Man. Some walkers will choose to continue South to the summit of Ben Dearg (552m) as well. Look out for golden eagles or sea eagles in the skies above.
An eagle soaring over the water. Credit: James Roddie
Bla Bheinn
Distance: 8km/5 miles | Ascent: 990m/3248ft | Duration: 5 to 6 hours
This beautiful Munro sits as an outlier to the Cuillin ridge. It’s position on the island makes it an exceptional all-round viewpoint. It is a very steep ascent with rocky ground, but there is no scrambling involved. As such it makes an ideal first Munro to climb on the island. This is a relatively quick ascent for fit walkers and can be done in a morning or afternoon.
Accommodation in Portree
There is a wide choice of accommodation available around Portree. There are plenty of self-catering cottages, glamping pods, guesthouses and B&Bs both in the town itself and in the immediate surroundings. Hotels include The Isles Inn, The Portree Hotel and The Royal Hotel.
Portree Youth Hostel and Portree Independent Hostel both offer dorms and private rooms. There is a campsite suitable for tents and camper vans just outside of the town on the road going North. There are countless suitable locations for responsible wild camping on Skye, particularly in the Cuillin and on the Trotternish ridge. Please follow Leave No Trace principles, and do not camp close to roads or residences. If leaving a vehicle overnight, make sure you observe all signs and do not block any access tracks or driveways.
The Cuillin reflected on a calm day. Credit: James Roddie
Food and drink
For hearty pub-grub after a long day on the hill, head to The Isles Inn. For excellent seafood, The Lower Deck Restaurant is in a waterfront location by the harbour. Other restaurants include the Antlers Bar and Grill, the Caberfeidh, and Dulse and Brose. The Cuillin Hills Hotel offers a separate vegan menu. For superb coffee and cake, Cafe Arriba will not disappoint (and is dog friendly). There are two fish and chip shops, and a small number of other takeaways. There is a large Co-Op supermarket on the outskirts of town.
Guides and activity providers
A long-established locally based mountain guiding company offering guiding for the Cuillin ridge Munros, scrambling, rock-climbing and winter-climbing.
Guided sea kayaking day trips and multi-day expeditions around Skye and the Northwest Highlands.
Locally based guides offering walking, Cuillin Munro and ridge guiding, gorge-walking, coasteering and canyoning.
Guidebooks
- Walking the Isle of Skye (Cicerone, £16.95) – Terry Marsh
- The Cuillin and Other Skye Mountains (Mica Publishing, £25) – Tom Prentice
- Skye’s Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Cicerone, £19.95) – Adrian Trendall
Taking the boat trip to Loch Coruisk. Credit: James Roddie
Getting to Portree
There are regular Citylink buses to Portree from Glasgow (service 915) or Inverness (service 917). There are no train services on Skye, but you can get a train from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh. This is within walking distance of the Skye Bridge. Regular buses run from Kyle of Lochalsh to Portree. If driving, the island is reached by car via the bridge on the A87, or you may choose to take the car ferry from Mallaig.
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