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The Camino Francés is often recommended for first-timers on a Camino pilgrimage. Also known as the French Way or the Way of St James, it is the most famous of the nine Camino de Santiago routes. It has inspired many artists, writers and filmmakers, such as Paulo Coelho in his bestseller The Pilgrimage, and Ernest Hemingway. It even attracted the gaze of Hollywood with the 2010 film The Way starring Martin Sheen.
Main image: Field of flowers on the Camino Francés | Credit: Follow the Camino
There is a great sense of camaraderie along the full length of the Camino Francés and its final stage from the town of Sarria towards the sacred city of Santiago de Compostela, where the Cathedral is believed to hold the remains of the Apostle St. James, is understandably the most popular section.
If you’re looking to walk the French Way, it is often best to get help from a specialist tour operator such as Follow the Camino. While the Camino Frances is a well way-marked route, given its popularity it can be difficult securing accommodation in the high season. You don’t want to be caught out with nowhere to stay after a long day of walking! Additionally, it can be tiring walking with a heavy backpack day after day, with transport options limited without local insight.
Follow the Camino has been leading the way since 2007 and was the first-ever tour operator to operate the Camino de Santiago. One of the best ways to experience what the Camino is all about is starting with one of the shortest sections: the initial stages of Camino Francés. Get a taste of the spirit and connection building among the Camino’s friendly pilgrims, awe-inspiring mountain scenery, and Pyrenean culture and food in regional cities like Pamplona in just three walking days, starting from £335 per person!
Camino Francés: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Pamplona
The Saint Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona route marks the beginning of the Camino Francés. It starts in the French town of St Jean Pied de Port and finishes in Pamplona, a city known for its famous “Running of the Bulls” festival each July during San Fermin (as described by Ernest Hemingway in his novel, The Sun Also Rises).
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
From the traditional starting point of the Camino, where pilgrims gather before heading through the Pyrenees, Before you start your Camino up through the Pyrenees, be sure to walk through the UNESCO-listed Port St. Jacques gate and visit the 14th-Century Gothic church in Saint Jean Pied de Port. Then, the path truly begins with the ‘Route de Napoleon’ over the Roncesvalles Pass, at heights of up to 1,500 meters, leading into the Basque Country before continuing into the more gentle terrain of Navarra.
The first day of the Camino is considered the most challenging as it crosses the Pyrenees. The Route de Napoleon, so called because it follows the route the French General’s armies followed when crossing Spain in 1813, starts with a steep climb through orchards and meadows. The path weaves alongside leafy beech woods until you reach the Spanish border. Don’t miss the stunning Collegiate Church along the path as you descend into Roncesvalles.
Stay at the Refuge Orisson—a basic but welcoming accommodation halfway along the route—to split the day into two parts, or use Follow the Camino’s more relaxed option by returning to stay in St Jean Pied de Port and taking a taxi to pick up where you left off the next day.
Follow the Camino recommends walking this part of the Camino Frances between 1 April and 31 October as the beautiful Route de Napoleon is closed outside this time. For travel between 1 November 1 and 31 March, travellers must use the Valcarlos Way which follows the road through the valley, running along the River Nive or River Valcarlos.
Roncesvalles
In Roncesvalles, you will find the Royal Monastery of Santa Maria, which has welcomed pilgrims since the 12th Century. There is also a monument commemorating the defeat of Charlemagne’s army and their leader, Roland, at the Battle of Roncesvalles in 778, a battle for control of the Pyrenees fought against the Basque army.
From here, the Camino crosses two stunning mountain passes before winding through woods and meadows. It then arrives at Espinal, where you’ll be treated to breathtaking panoramic views of the countryside with the Pyrenees in the background. The River Arga flows alongside this stretch of the Camino, continuing all the way to Larrasoana.
The Camino follows the River Arga, passing the foothills covered in beech, oak, and Scots pine trees. As you get closer to Pamplona, famous for its connections to novelist Ernest Hemingway and Running of the Bulls festival each July, the landscape becomes more developed, with reforested conifers and farmlands becoming more common.
Pamplona
You can easily spend two days after you complete your Camino in the renowned Pamplona. This historic city, once a central part of the Kingdom of Navarre, is full of Gothic architecture, from the medieval city walls to the impressive Cathedral of Santa María la Real. You can easily spend hours walking through the streets that inspired Hemingway, with Follow the Camino able to provide a map to the cafes and bars the famous novelist frequented. Afterward, enjoy a delicious meal—either a traditional Basque dish or a modern European fusion style—perfect for rounding off your day. And, if you travel at the right time of year, you can get your heart rate up at the iconic Running of the Bulls Festival!
Follow Your Camino
With Follow the Camino, you’ll enjoy Bed & Breakfast at specially hand-picked accommodation each day, plus have the reassurance of 24/7 on-call support and a pre-departure briefing. For a little luxury, you could choose to extend your stay to include day tours to local sites of interest, or add on premium accommodation options, airport pick-up, luggage transfers day to day, or have dinners included.
In terms of getting there, Saint Jean Pied de Port is well-connected by train from Paris Montparnasse station and you can also fly into Biarritz and connect through the nearby town of Bayonne into Saint Jean Pied de Port. Getting home post-trail, the Burundesa bus company links Pamplona with Bilbao, an airport offering flights on airlines like EasyJet and Iberia/BA to all over Europe. Follow the Camino’s travel specialists can also offer excellent advice on travelling to and from your Camino journey from wherever you are in the world.
Learn more at Follow the Camino and book this trip between 1 April and 31 October for optimum weather conditions on the trail.
