Phillipa Cherryson finds out why this mid-Wales town calls itself the outdoor capital of Wales.

Rhayader may just be the best town for outdoor activities that you’ve never heard of. Situated in the heart of the Welsh countryside, most only register it as they pass through its central crossroads on their way north to Eryri/Snowdonia or west to the coast.

Main image: The Elan Valley in Autumn | Credit: Shutterstock

But Rhayader has good reason to call itself the ‘outdoor capital of Wales’. It’s the gateway to the Elan Valley, the Welsh ‘Lake District’ of 72 square miles of open space, boasting six dams and reservoirs all surrounded by rounded green hills and steep valleys. It’s a playground for hikers, water sports fans, horse riders, road cyclists and has been named as one of the top 10 destinations for mountain bikers by Red Bull. It’s also been designated as an International Dark Sky Park – perfect for stargazing. But word is spreading, and more people are discovering its secret charms. Recently Welsh singer and presenter Charlotte Church opened a wellness retreat two miles outside the town.

Rhayader gets its name from ‘Rhayadr Gwy’ a local waterfall on the River Wye and it is said to be the oldest town in Wales – records date it to the 5th century but there is evidence of prehistoric settlements too. It’s at a natural crossroads and has been welcoming travellers for centuries.

At its heart is a clock tower, a memorial to those from the town who died in the first world war. This central crossroads of narrow streets can prove a bottleneck at busy times, but away from the main routes the town is peaceful. You can find pubs, cafes and independent shops lining its central streets. Be sure to visit Hafod Hardware, a family store which has been trading since 1895. Other independent shops worth a visit include vintage home and gifts shop Serendipity, Quillies Gallery and RiverWood Studio which also stocks a good range of wildlife books. If you arrive before 9pm on Friday night, head straight to The Lost ARC for its excellent woodfired pizzas. If you aren’t in time, then it’s also a great place for food over the weekend from 9am until 4pm.

Rhayader clock tower

The clock tower. Credit: Shutterstock

Your weekend in Rhayader, sorted

Your itinerary

Saturday

You are spoiled for choice this morning. The Wye Valley Walk and Glyndwr’s Way pass by, so you could choose to walk a section of those routes. But otherwise, head for the Elan Valley, by bike, car or bus. The visitor center makes a great starting point, with a car park, ebike hire, information and facilities. Parking here is £3 a day and when I last went bikepacking I left my car here for two days – speak to reception if you plan to stay more than a day.

If you are planning a multi-day hike or bike ride you’ve got a choice of three bothies – yes you heard me right! The Claerddu bothy is near the Teifi Pools and luxurious for a bothy with a small cooker and a flushing loo. It is maintained by The Elan Valley Trust. Lluest Cwm Bach, an MBA bothy, is closer to the visitor centre on the eastern shore of Craig Goch Reservior. It is popular with DoE groups so don’t forget a bivvy bag or tent. The third is another MBA bothy – Moel Prysgau which is in forestry in the southwest.

Although the highest point of the Elan Valley at Drygarn Fawr, is just 645m, don’t underestimate the terrain, some paths can be very boggy, and it can be tricky to navigate in bad weather. For a day walk, the 10-mile (16km) Garreg Ddu Reservoir Loop takes in two of the striking Victorian dams and you can start at the visitor centre. Or if you fancy tackling Drygarn Fawr itself, park at the Dol y Mynach Reservoir car park and then it’s an 8.9mile (14.3km) circular route of 1622ft (494m) ascent taking about four-and-a-half to five hours.

But my favourite way to explore the Elan Valley is by mountain bike. It boasts some of the best natural tracks in Wales, ranging from the 60km black-graded Elan Epic to gentle riding along the Elan Valley trail, which follows the route of the Victorian railway line. Or if bikepacking is more your thing, all three bothies are popular with cyclists and walkers alike.

On your return and if you aren’t overnighting in the Elan Valley, then do try to get to Gigrin Farm for 3pm during the summer (2pm winter) for the red kite feeding. The number of kites visiting the feeding station can vary from 300 to 600 or more, it’s an incredible sight.

Back in Rhayader, before you put your feet up, take a gentle stroll on the one-mile circular Cwmdeuddwr Wildlife Walk that takes you along the banks of the River Wye. You can also stop at the new, but already very popular Narrative Coffee, in the town centre.

And later after you’ve eaten and before you turn in for the night, don’t forget to step outside with a warming drink and see if the skies are clear. If so, you could be treated to a celestial display.

Gigrin2 - credit David Leith

The red kites at Gigrin. Credit: David Leith

Sunday

Another day and another direction. Today we’re walking from Rhayader itself on a nine-mile (14.5km) loop to the Gilfach nature reserve – a great way to see the hills and countryside surrounding the town itself.

You’ll head out over 463m (1519ft) Esgair Dderw, before dropping back down to the valley and following a quiet lane to Gilfach (https://www.rwtwales.org/nature-reserves/gilfach). Managed by the Radnor Wildlife Trust, the 410-acre reserve is a wild and beautiful place, boasting a huge diversity of wildlife. The walk takes you back to Rhayader along another quiet lane.

If you don’t fancy the full walk, you can drive to the reserve where there are five marked trails of up to 3 miles (4.8km) in length. However you get there don’t forget your binoculars for great nature watching.

Alternatively, if the Elan Valley still beckons, then return to the visitor centre for another loop, this time of 7.7 miles (12.4km) which heads through Cnwch Wood, along the edge of Caban Coch Reservoir and then up Gro Hill. A total elevation gain of 440m (1443ft).

On your return from your walk or your night in the Elan Valley, you’ll have worked up an appetite so make sure you stop for Sunday lunch. The Triangle (http://triangleinn.co.uk/) is a small, friendly pub which sources its ingredients from local farmers whenever possible and it’s advisable to book.

Other walks nearby

Pumlumon (Plynlimon) Fawr

Distance: 3.8 mile/5.6km | Ascent: 1264ft/385m | Duration: 3 hours

At 752m (2467ft) Pumlumon is the highest point in mid Wales. It’s a 45-minute drive from Rhayader to the starting point at the Nant y Moch Reservoir (SN7749487942). Take the Caradoc Jones Trail, a 3.8 mile (5.6km) circular route and allow at least four hours to complete this. You’ll get great views and few people.

Source of the Severn Trail

Distance: 8 miles/13km | Ascent: 401m/1318ft | Duration: 5 hours

You’ll start at the Rhyd-y-bench car park (SN 85734 86922) in the Hafren Forest northwest of Llanidloes (allow 40 minutes in the car). You’ll follow marked trails through the forest to the source of the River Wye, marked with a post. You could also extend it to a 12.5mile circular walk to take in the source of the River Severn or return to the forestry to enjoy a one-hour loop to the famous Severn-Break-its-Neck waterfall.

A frosty morning in mid-Wales. Credit: Shutterstock

A frosty morning in mid-Wales. Credit: Shutterstock

Accommodation in Rhayader

There’s a good selection of B&Bs and many of the pubs have rooms. Local mountain bike guide Pippa Boss doesn’t just offer mtb tours of the Elan Valley but has two B&B rooms in her home where you’ll enjoy great breakfasts with homemade and homegrown produce.

Penrally B&B has lovely gardens and views with off-road parking, while The Horseshoe Guesthouse in the centre of town welcomes outdoor lovers and has a car park.

Or if you fancy something more sumptuous outside the town, The Elan Valley Hotel is a boutique hotel within the Elan Valley itself.

For campers, a five-minute walk from the centre of town brings you to Wyeside Campsite which is a caravan and camping ground. Or if you want to sleep under the dark skies of the Elan Valley then head for Elan Oaks, which has a riverside camping meadow.

Food and drink

There’s a choice of pubs, cafes and take aways in the centre of town, but for everything from coffee, lunch, to weekend evening meals try Ty Morgans. Situated slap bang in the town centre, it’s been in the same family for more than 60 years. Evans Plaice is great for traditional homemade pizzas and burgers and has an ice cream parlour too. For pub meals, our Sunday lunch choice The Triangle does evening meals or The Crown Inn, a traditional pub, is always popular.

Guides and activity providers

The only provider licensed for the Elan Estate, it offers a host of activities, including kayaking and raft building, abseiling, rock climbing and hill walking

The Wilderness Project boasts a 200-acre site and runs everything from bushcraft courses to navigation training, craft workshops to outdoor first aid

Neil’s Wheels hires eMTBs and offers bike repairs and servicing

Guidebooks

Walking Around Rhayader and the Elan Valley, pub by Kittiwake (£4.95) and The Ordnance Survey’s Mid Wales Outstanding Circular Walks (£12.99)

Getting to Rhayader

The nearest train station is at Llandrindod Wells, 12 miles away on the Heart of Wales line that runs from Shrewsbury to Swansea. The X47 bus service runs to Rhayader from Aberystwyth and Llandrindod Wells.

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