Your weekend in: Inverness

Inverness has to rank as one of the most convenient places in Scotland to base yourself for a weekend in the outdoors, says James Roddie.

Easily reached by public transport, and perfectly ‘sandwiched’ between some of the Highland’s finest landscapes, Inverness provides relatively quick access to a huge variety of hillwalks, scrambles and backpacking routes. You can be walking in the pine forests of the Cairngorms within forty minutes of leaving the city centre by car, or starting the ascent of Liathach or An Teallach in little over an hour.

Main image: A winter sunrise in the Fannichs | Credit: James Roddie

Inverness is of course inextricably linked with Loch Ness – arguably one of the most famous bodies of water in the world. Aside from being the mythical home of a giant water monster, the loch is a fine place for wild swimming and paddle boarding, and a variety of forest trails can be walked with views over the loch. The 119km Great Glen Way is started or finished in Inverness. This is a relatively easy long distance trail, and some sections are popular as single day hikes. In the opposite direction to Loch Ness, a short drive or bus journey over the Kessock Bridge takes you to the Black Isle. There are some easy but memorable walks for a half-day here. RSPB Fairy Glen contains some charming waterfalls and woodland, and nearby Chanonry Point is one of the best places in the world to watch bottlenose dolphins at close quarters.

Head a little further afield and you will reach the beautiful forested glens of Affric and Strathfarrar. There are numerous Munros here, along with miles of low level walking and cycling routes. It also doesn’t take long to reach Ben Wyvis or the Fannichs by car, meaning you have a wide variety of options for hillwalking.

The weather is always a bit of a gamble in the North of Scotland. If it is too wet or windy for the hills, then the city itself is an enjoyable place to spend a couple of days. The River Ness and Caledonian Canal flow through the city, and both are followed by easy walking routes. Regular boat trips run along the canal into Loch Ness, and dolphin watching boats run from the harbour during the summer. There is a wide variety of restaurants, bars and accommodation, and the cathedral and museum are both well-worth a visit. The city and its surroundings are rich in history and Highland culture. The nearby Culloden battlefield is one of the UK’s most significant historical sites.

Your weekend in Inverness, sorted

• The weekend itinerary
• Other walks near Wooler
• Accommodation
• Food and drink
• Guides and activity providers
• Guidebooks
• Getting there

Your itinerary

Saturday

Clock-up 15 miles of classic Scottish hillwalking with a route over four Munros in the Fannichs, and visit one of the most spectacular gorges in Scotland.

An hour of scenic driving from Inverness gets you to the Fannichs – a range of nine Munros known for their expansive views. This route over the Eastern Fannichs is a classic, challenging walk, taking you over the summits of Beinn Liath Mhor Fannich, Sgurr Mor, Meall Gorm and An Coileachan. On a clear day you will get views of An Teallach and the unmistakable hills of Coigach and Assynt. This is a particularly high quality walk in full winter conditions, but your hill-fitness will need to be top-notch to make it enjoyable and safe. If you don’t feel up to four Munros, then nearby Ben Wyvis or Little Wyvis are great backup options.

If timing allows, then don’t visit this area without taking the opportunity to visit Corrieshalloch Gorge. This ‘slot canyon’ is around 1.5km long and 60 metres deep, and contains a spectacular waterfall fringed by lush woodland. It is an astonishing place, and can be reached via a very short walk from the road.

Sunday

Take a visit to arguably Scotland’s most beautiful glen – Glen Affric. Enjoy the atmosphere of the ancient Caledonian forest by either foot or mountain bike.

A trip to gorgeous Glen Affric is perfect for a relatively relaxed Sunday. The energetic may wish to tackle some of the glen’s remote Munros, but an equally rewarding day involves the classic Loch Affric circuit. This is an 18km route which stays quite low, providing continously stunning views for its entire length. Much of the walk passes through and around fragments of the ancient Caledonian pine forest which borders the loch. Conservation efforts are helping regeneration of the woodlands here, and it is a landscape teeming with life.

Sightings of rare wildlife such as golden eagles, pine martens and crested tits are relatively common here. The Loch Affric circuit is most easily done by foot, but it can also be completed by competent mountain bikers. Once you have completed the circuit, finish your day with a short walk to Dog Falls, or a diversion by car will take you to the even more impressive Plodda Falls. Return to Inverness via Drumnadrochit, and if time allows, visit Urquhart Castle or the Loch Ness Centre.

Other walks nearby

Tom a’Choinnich and Toll Creagach

Distance: 16.5km/10.25 miles | Ascent: 1096m | Duration: 6-8 hours

These are the two easiest of the Glen Affric Munros, and are a substantially less strenuous undertaking than the hills situated in the Western half of the glen. A start from the tree-fringed Loch Beinn a’Mheadhoin takes you into a boggy glen with some burn crossings. As you gain height, expect non-technical but serious mountain terrain. Snow fields often linger into early summer on these hills, so keep this is mind.

Glen Strathfarrar Munros circuit

Distance: 25km/15.5miles | Ascent: 1570m | Duration: 7-10 hours

This is a fine round of four Munros, accessed from the quiet and tree-filled Glen Strathfarrar. Expect wide views and enjoyable ‘big country’ walking throughout. The access arrangements of Glen Strathfarrar add a layer of time pressure. Access by car has timed restrictions, and the glen is closed at certain times to vehicles. Access by bike or foot is permitted at any time. Alternatively, you could approach these Munros from Strathconon via Glen Orin, for a slightly longer and less frequented route.

Accommodation in Inverness

Inverness has a broad range of accommodation available to suit most budgets. The Hostelling Scotland youth hostel is situated around 10 minutes walk from the city centre and train/bus station. Other hostels include Black Isle Hostel and City Hostel. There are numerous hotels, B&Bs, guesthouses and self-catering accommodations available throughout the city and in neighbouring villages. Be aware that prices will change seasonally, and booking well in advance is often necessary during holiday periods.

There is a small number of camping/caravan parks around Inverness. Just a little further afield, there are campsites at Abriachan and in Drumnadrochit. Wild camping is legal and possible in the forests and uplands surrounding Inverness. Always ensure you chose a discrete location, and follow Leave No Trace principles.

Food and drink

There is a wide choice available for a well-deserved meal in Inverness. A booming tourism industry has ensured there is no shortage of restaurants, cafés, bars and takeaways to choose from. For those craving beer and pizza, the Black Isle Brewery Bar serves a superb selection of organic ales, lagers and wood-fired pizzas. Hootenanny serves traditional Scottish food and there is regular live traditional music. Macleod’s Fish and Chips is a great option if you are craving a carb-heavy takeaway after a long day in the hills. There are superb options for Asian food at Hou Hou Mei, Love Dosa and many others. The food hall at the Victorian Market is worth a visit for a variety of meal options.

Guides and activity providers

• Glenmore Lodge

Just a 40 minute drive from Inverness is Scotland’s outdoor training centre, offering numerous guided courses and trips plus outdoor qualification training and assessment provision.

• In Your Element

A multi-discipline guiding company offering guided walks, rock-climbing, gorge-walking, kayaking and other activities.

• Explore Highland

Kayak, canoe and SUP guiding based in Inverness.

• The Ledge Climbing Gym

The largest climbing gym in the Scottish Highlands, offering classes and courses, along with a roped-climbing and bouldering wall.

Guidebooks

Loch Ness, Inverness, Black Isle and Affric: 40 Favourite Walks by Paul Webster and Helen Webster (published by Pocket Mountains) will be £6.95 well spent while Paddy Dillan’s Walking the Great Glen Way (published by Cicerone, £14.95) is a good guide to this epic trail.

Getting there

Inverness is easily reached by public transport. The train and bus stations are situated next to each other in the city centre. Multiple trains a day connect Inverness with Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen. Regular Citylink and MegaBus services run to Inverness. There are also regular flights to Inverness from all over the UK.

Discover more of the UK adventure towns and villages that make great weekend bases from which to explore the hills.